The Golden Temple at Amritsar

We went to the Golden Temple at night. First you have to cover your head (within about 30 seconds of alighting from the car a small boy had sold me a headscarf for 10 rupees and tied it on for me) then you must remove your shoes. After this you wash your hands and walk through a water trough to cleanse your feet before entering the temple precinct. Unlike other places of worship, to which you often have to ascend, the Golden Temple has been constructed below ground level so you have to descend a flight of steps. This is symbolic. Sikhism is an egalitarian religion without idols and without priests.

The first sight of the floodlit temple glistening in the night, its reflection in the lagoon that surrounds it, is breathtaking. The overall effect is added to by the amplified chanting of hymns emanating from the temple and the crowds of people who have come to worship.
We were there to watch the transportation of the Guru Granth Sahib (the Holy Book) from the temple to the Akal Takht where it is kept at night. We watched as devotees decorated the jewelled canopy which is used to carry the Holy Book with garlands of flowers. This was then taken into the temple, loaded with the Holy Book, and brought out and carried to the Akal Takht. This happens every night.

The next morning we returned to the Golden Temple and queued up to go inside. This time we saw the book itself being read by one of the devotees. It is opened at random each morning and the text forms the basis of contemplation for that day. Once again, the air was filled with the chanting of hymns.

However, the most impressive aspect of Sikhism was still to come. Beside the temple is the kitchen and dining complex. This is staffed by volunteers and financed by donations. Anyone can go in there and eat for free – on the way in we were offered bowls. It feeds forty thousand people each day! It is a phenomenal sight. Dozens of people rolling and cooking chapattis, huge cauldrons of stewing vegetables, thousands of plates being human-chained to be washed, and hundreds of people sitting eating.

Much to my surprise it gave religion a good name